Sunday, December 25, 2011

Sunforce 11260 2500 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter

!±8±Sunforce 11260 2500 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter

Brand : Sunforce
Rate :
Price : $413.99
Post Date : Dec 25, 2011 21:49:33
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The Sunforce 2500 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter converts DC power into clean, stable AC power. Excellent for powering home appliances directly from your 12V battery, this inverter will supply stable power to run small electronic tools, air pumps, electronic doors, small motors and refrigerators that a modified sine wave inverter cannot. Pure Sine Wave inverters provide clean power with very low harmonic distortion, no static or humming noise. With a peak surge power of 5000 Watts and continuous power of 2500 Watts, this product is the ideal solution for power failure emergencies and guarantees optimum compatibility with sensitive equipment, computers, motors, televisions and more! Compact and portable, this unit is perfect for use at worksites, on boats, or for permanent use in a solar power setup. The 11260 features numerous safety features including an overload alarm and LED light, a soft start system, low battery shut down, DC input overload voltage, output overload, overload temperature, short circuit shut down, and a high speed cooling fan. Equipped with four 110 Volt AC household electrical outlets, this inverter is so advanced that it is patented. The system includes a full product manual, DC/AC power inverter remote control modular connector cable, an LCD digital display and key chain remote.

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Monday, December 12, 2011

Kolob Mountain Utah 3 BD/2 BA

** myhzm.com Beautiful log cabin with unbelockable view of mountains and valleys From the family room, with large picture frame windows,to the kitchen and the dining room, this true log cabin has elegance and charm Enjoy the Master bedroom with its attached master bath Divided bedroom with bathroom on the 2nd floor loft area Solar system with trace inverter powers the cabin, including the washer Watch the deer and other animals play from your wrap around deck This cabin has it all Virtual Tour: www.myhzm.com Allinformation is believed to be accurate, but not guaranteed. Buyers should verify all information with the listing agent. To search more inventory please click here: erabrokers.com **Please check the listing website for current pricing. Video uploaded on Sun, 31 Jul 2011 05:07:13 -0500

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Thursday, December 8, 2011

Diagnosing Flickering House Lights

!±8± Diagnosing Flickering House Lights

To start with there are a handful of reasons for flickering lights. Let's first establish if it is limited to one room, two rooms or the whole house. The reason for wanting to know this is to narrow the areas in which we will be looking. If it's the whole house it could be your ESP (Electrical Service Provider) and from making a call to their repair department you might save yourself a service call from your favorite licensed electrician.

Once this is ruled out we can begin the process of eliminating items on the list. Remember to turn all power off to any light fixtures and electrical boxes before performing any work. For starters if the lights are flickering in only one room we can check the connection at the light fixture and at the switch. After which we can turn power back on and look for some flickering. Keep in mind that there are times that the problem may arise only after the lights have been on for a while. If we still have some flickering we can assume that the problem lies somewhere between were the switch is and circuit breaker, which brings up a point that we have been looking on one end of the problem and that at this point we could change gears temporally to look at the circuit breaker as a possible culprit.

When examining the circuit breaker be sure to turn all the power off feeding that electrical panel. Ensuring the power is off before inspecting the possible causes of the flickering lights is one of the safety procedures we will always be stressing. After removing the circuit breaker, inspect both the panel and the breaker for signs of heat buildup or arching, which will show up as pitting and corrosion where the breaker attaches to the panel or the busing on the panel. If these check out the problem could still be inside the circuit breaker itself which does not lend itself to internal inspection. At this point you can have it replaced and eliminate it from possible causes. While we are in the electrical panel, we should also be looking at the neutral wire for that circuit. A loose neutral wire can be just as damaging to the integrity of an electrical circuit as the hot wire. After checking the tightness of the screw holding down the wire, give it a little tug to be sure.

To recap, we started at the light in question inspecting the switch box and the junction box that the light is attached to. Everything seemed to be in order so we attacked the other end of the associated problem. After not finding any signs of what could be causing the problem the next areas of interest are from above or below. From here, the real dirty work is ahead of us. Now would be a good time to think about calling in an electrician if you are not up to crawling under the house or in the attic. This is where we attempt to trace the path in which the wire travels from the panel to the light fixture, all of which could entail a number of points in between.

Most houses that have not had any remodeling done would have one of two types of wiring, romex or conduit. If the house is really dated, it would be wired with Knob and Tube. After the circuit leaves the panel it more than likely will either go to a switch box or ceiling box with a light fixture attached. On occasions, in the older homes there may be a junction where the circuit branches out from there. This makes it somewhat easier to trace since we do not have to pull out switches or remove light fixtures. Remember that the most important aspect is safety and that you should always have the power off when inspecting the wiring. If you cannot diagnose the issue, you should consider getting outside help.


Diagnosing Flickering House Lights

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Friday, December 2, 2011

The Basics of Electrical Installation and Wiring

!±8± The Basics of Electrical Installation and Wiring

In order to have power in your home to operate the heat and your appliances, you do need to have electrical installation and wiring. This is one part of the construction phase that has to be done by a qualified professional. You should never attempt to install anything connected with the electricity if you do not have the proper training.

Some of the basic principles of electrical work are:

* Never start working with electricity until the power supply to the home has been shut off.
* Wires of the same color connect to each other.
* When installing receptacle boxes, you push the bare end of the wire into spring grip holes. The boxes have labels to tell you what color wires go into each hole.
* The black wires in the cables are used for connecting switches.
* The wiring used in homes is Number 12 or 14 gauge wiring.
* For any extended wiring circuit, always use the same size cable for the continuation.

When you are connected new wiring to the existing wiring in the home, you should always do so in the last outlet on the run of cable. You can find the last outlet by removing the plate to see how many wires are connected in the outlet. The last one will have wires connected to only two of the terminal screws. The two remaining terminal screws will be the starting point for the new writing. You do have to check to see which gauge cable was used and you have to continue with this.

Unless the junction box is full, you can also attach new wiring to this box. Trace the cable back to see what voltage is on it so that you won't connect a 120- voltage to one that has 240- voltage. Locate the white wires in the box and attaché the new white wires at this point.


The Basics of Electrical Installation and Wiring

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